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The Backstage: Human-Centered Fashion with Mango’s Head of Research, Lourenço Viana

At IE University, we go beneath the surface to explore the real issues affecting industry. IE School of Architecture & Design’s new series, The Backstage, is taking a deep dive into the world of fashion and other creative industries to uncover what’s going on behind closed doors regarding key themes such as innovation and sustainability.

The second event of The Backstage series featured in-depth discussions on “Human-Centered Fashion: Steps Towards a New Industry Mindset.” We were joined by international fashion brand Mango’s Global Head of Research & Customer Insights, Lourenço Viana, who spoke about the company’s ongoing efforts to adopt a customer mindset.

A constantly changing industry

After an introduction from the director of our Bachelor in Fashion Design, Baruc Corazón, who introduced him as “an insightful leader,” Lourenço engaged the audience with an insightful talk. He outlined some initiatives being implemented in the sector in recent years, citing as an example the Customer-Centricity project, introduced in 2019, that he’s been a part of.

Even among the fashion industry’s big players, such initiatives are, Lourenço said, much needed. Speaking as one of the main driving forces behind the project, he pointed out that current trading conditions are marked by economic uncertainty, shifting consumer needs and rapid technological advancement. Faced with that scenario, the fashion industry’s ongoing success could no longer be taken for granted. The industry is evolving constantly, he pointed out, and brands must evolve with it.

Human-Centered Fashion Design

Moreover, consumers are becoming more knowledgeable and expect more from their preferred brands. Newer “fast fashion” entrants like Shein and Temu are emerging to pose a real threat to the established players. At the same time, consumers are raising more and more questions—and making more demands—around issues such as sustainability and labor conditions. In response, brands are beginning to set ambitious targets, such as sourcing fabrics entirely from recycled or sustainably produced materials.

“The fashion industry is not going to be more socially responsible unless new policies are put into place.”–Lourenço Viana

Making the customer a priority

Even such changes in the consumption of material resources are not enough, Lourenço said. To understand fully the challenges they’re facing, fashion brands must get closer to their customers and build stronger relationships with them. “We need to establish emotional connections with consumers, and understand them beyond demographic data,” he explained. 

He pointed out that customers enjoy having a voice, and that from the insights gleaned from listening to those voices, innovative projects like Customer-Centricity are born. Ultimately, Lourenço’s aim is to “foster a customer mindset within fashion product development teams.”

“Understanding different perspectives will make you a bit more generous and understanding of the other’s reality.”–Lourenço Viana

Customer-Centricity comprises 12 main elements, which Lourenço detailed. He particularly highlighted:

  • Fitting sessions. Customers are interviewed in situations that replicate the in-store trying-on process.
  • User diaries. Customers document their experiences with their preferred brands’ products through video, photo and text.
  • Co-design workshops. These bring staff and customers together in informative sessions.
  • Surveys.
  • Customer mood boards.
  • In-depth customer interviews, the “most-used method.”
Human-Centered Fashion creation

According to Lourenço, the aim of these interviews was to “talk about issues that are relevant for our customers and try to understand their attitudes toward fashion.” However, all these methods provide direct customer insights and feedback that can be leveraged to inform business decisions.

Lourenço gave one example of a pair of jeans that proved so popular in testing that a much higher stock of the product was maintained than had originally been planned. That product then turned out to be one of the season’s bestsellers.

“Consumers expect to be heard, and they enjoy having a voice.”

Lourenço Viana

Building strong relationships

Reflecting on the impact of the Customer-Centricity project so far, Lourenço said that it has led to better-informed decision-making, greater team alignment and more efficiency. But just as importantly, it has also sparked a cultural shift and inspired new ways of thinking about and developing fashion products.

Stronger relationships with consumers, Lourenço said, ultimately come down to listening to their needs. “Be empathetic and generous and, above all, create trust,” he encourages, adding, “It’s important to remember the human side when you’re talking about research, especially in design research.”

“To establish emotional connections with consumers, you need to understand them beyond demographic data.”

Lourenço Viana

The future of fashion

The Customer-Centricity project has been a great success so far, but Lourenço says there’s still a lot of work to do. While initiatives like these are essential, the industry as a whole is in need of a paradigm shift. “The fashion industry is not going to be more socially responsible unless new policies are put into place,” he pointed out. “At the end of the day, businesses exist to make profits, so it’s only through regulation that sustainable practices can be ensured.”

The event was an eye-opening look into the innovation that’s already begun in the fashion sector, and serves as an inspiring and motivating example for tomorrow’s changemakers. We look forward to more interesting and insightful discussions on The Backstage.

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Paula Outon is an experienced graphic designer and marketer with a solid academic and professional background. Her academic journey took her from Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City, where she specialized in Graphic Design with a focus on Branding, to Australia, where she furthered her expertise in Fine Arts in Digital Media. Upon returning to her home country, Paula gained valuable experience in Digital Marketing.

Her passion for understanding consumer behavior led her to Spain, where she completed a Master’s in Marketing Research and Consumer Behavior at IE University. Paula continues advancing her marketing career, leveraging her diverse skill set and international experience.

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